ETTR vs. HDR

If you’ve ever taken photos at the begin­ning or end of the day, you’ll be fami­liar with the situa­tion. Magical light or intense colours in the sky. You take a few shots, look at the display and think, great, that’s perfect. Then you get home to your computer and see the dilemma. Your photos are too dark. The image is quite muddy in the shadows, appears blurry and is also comple­tely noisy. And that’s at ISO 100, why is that? In this BLOG / VLOG, I’ll intro­duce you to two rela­tively simple shoo­ting tech­ni­ques that will imme­dia­tely improve the quality of your land­scape photos. Simple because they are rela­tively quick to imple­ment and easy to learn. You just have to take the time and pay atten­tion to a few small things. 

Gear:

Sony a7IV
Sony FE 4/24–105 mm G

You can see the VLOG to the BLOG at the bottom of the page or you can reach it via this button:

The diffe­rence between ETTR and HDR

The two shoo­ting tech­ni­ques discussed in this article are ETTR (Expose to the Right) and HDR (High Dynamic Range).

With ETTR, or expo­sure towards the right, you over­ex­pose as much as possible without getting areas of maximum white. This allows you to use the maximum possible dynamic range of the camera sensor. With HDR, I extend this dynamic range of the camera sensor even further by inclu­ding addi­tional over­ex­posed and under­ex­posed images. Many cameras do this semi-auto­ma­ti­cally with HDR bracke­ting at the touch of a button. 

Why all this?

Dark areas of an image have the charac­te­ristic that they contain all the infor­ma­tion, but if they emit too little light and only a small amount of light ‘falls’ on the sensor, then this amount of light is not suffi­cient to mask the elec­tronic noise of the photo­sensor. If I brighten these dark areas signi­fi­cantly in post-proces­sing, I also amplify the noise in these areas of the image. Yes, even at ISO 100. 

With ETTR, I expose as brightly as possible. (However, I must avoid crea­ting maximum white, as this would result in a loss of image infor­ma­tion at that point!) This allows more light to hit the sensor in the dark areas of the photo, which in turn better masks the noise. When brigh­tening the image in image editing, I still have less noise. The overall image quality improves. 

With HDR, I use the infor­ma­tion from the over­ex­posed image in the dark areas and the infor­ma­tion in the bright areas from the under­ex­posed image. The result is a higher dynamic range than the camera sensor can provide and less noise, resul­ting in higher image quality. 

Expo­sure compen­sa­tion and histogram

For both shoo­ting tech­ni­ques, it is advi­sable to use the camera’s expo­sure compen­sa­tion to achieve the best results. The built-in histo­gram of modern digital cameras allows you to reliably check the expo­sure while shoo­ting. If you want to use the ETTR tech­nique, I turn the expo­sure compen­sa­tion to the posi­tive until the histo­gram shows a steep rise on the right-hand side. This signals over­ex­po­sure and a possible maximum white that cannot be saved in image editing. I demons­trate the proce­dure in the video below. The histo­gram also clearly shows whether all the infor­ma­tion in the image can be captured or whether you need to switch from ETTR to HDR tech­nique. If the histo­gram peaks at the bottom and top, the dynamic range of the camera sensor is not suffi­cient and HDR tech­nique must (should) be used.

Possible sources of error

The histo­gram during shoo­ting shows the entire channel and thus an average of the indi­vi­dual colour chan­nels. In this case, it may happen that the expo­sure looks good and has not been over­ex­posed too far to the right in ETTR. However, in the case of such an intense sunrise, for example, the red colour channel may clip, meaning that colour infor­ma­tion is lost. It is ther­e­fore advi­sable to check the histo­grams of the indi­vi­dual colour chan­nels after shoo­ting and take correc­tive action if neces­sary. Even small, very bright but over­ex­posed areas in the image can prevent the histo­gram from showing an accu­mu­la­tion on the right-hand side, as the area is simply too small in compa­rison to the overall image. The over­ex­po­sure warning helps here.

When crea­ting HDR bracke­ting shots, do not allow too much time to pass between shots. Other­wise, moving elements may cause ghos­ting, i.e. ghost effects in the image. You should also pay atten­tion to colour breaks during inten­sive image processing!

Sunrise over Malsch | Sony a7 IV + Sony FE 4/24–105 mm G

Conclu­sion

Both tech­ni­ques require a little prac­tice, but are rela­tively quick to learn. Espe­ci­ally at the begin­ning, you should take the time to review the images you have just taken and look at the histo­grams of the indi­vi­dual chan­nels. If the histo­gram is very spread out, it always makes sense to create an HDR, even if the images may not be needed in the end. 

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If you would like to try or buy Luminar Neo yourself, you can use the code ‘Sphoto10´ to save an addi­tional 10% on Luminar Neo!

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VLOG to the BLOG

For those who can’t quite picture ever­y­thing while reading, I have illus­trated the process during recor­ding, the tricks to keep in mind and the diffe­rences using RAW recor­dings in the video. So be sure to take a look!

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