Simply inde­scri­bable | Photo trip to the Faroe Islands 3/3

I’m sitting at the break­fast table in our flat, sipping comfor­tably on my laptop. The weather maps for the next two days show good weather for our plans. One more click and our ferries are booked. It’s easy and pretty straight­for­ward online. These are the Faroe Islands too. I’ve booked a ferry to Mykines and Puffin Island for us today and a ferry to Kalsoy for tomorrow. So the programme for the next few days is set. 

We visit the cutest inha­bi­tants of the Faroe Islands, take a look at a few more unknown spots that are super easy to reach, a modera­tely diffi­cult hike with a great view of Klakkur, drive through Klaksvík and hike to two of the abso­lute high­lights of the Faroe Islands. At the end of this series, I would also like to write about a few things you should know before you go hiking on the Faroe Islands!

You can see the VLOG to the BLOG at the bottom of the page or you can reach it via this button:


Sony a7IV
Sony FE 2.8/16–35 mm GM
Sony FE 4/24–105 mm G
Sony FE 100–400 mm GM
DJI Mini 3 Pro

The Witches Finger

However, we still had a little time before our ferry to Mykines departed. Even though we knew it wouldn’t be the ideal time of day for it, we headed to a nearby spot, the witch’s finger: Trøll­kon­u­fingur. Lite­rally trans­lated, this means troll’s finger.

It’s about a 20-minute walk from the car park. On the way you will pass a beau­tiful house, which you can use as a wonderful fore­ground in better light than we had (early morning or evening) to photo­graph it with the island of Koltur in the background.

To get a slightly better direc­tion of light, I used my drone and flew as far out to sea as made sense from the angle, so that the finger and the moun­tain were still sepa­rated. For another picture I was lucky that a ship sailed past the finger, which also adds size to the picture, as you can see how high this finger actually is.

Inci­den­tally, you also have a beau­tiful view from the hike to Trælanípa. You can see the picture in the first part of this series on day 2.

The Witch’s Finger | DJI Mini 3 Pro


In the after­noon, we travelled to Mykines, the western­most island of the Faroe Islands. It can only be reached by heli­c­opter or ferry from Sørvágur. It is considered the home of the puffins on the Faroe Islands. The trip out to the island is defi­ni­tely a high­light. In good weather, you pass close to Dran­garnir. But the coast­line along the south coast of Mykines is also very impres­sive and is some­what remi­nis­cent of the coast­line of Hawaii.

However, when we arrived on site, a nuisance began that we didn’t have on our radar. We were prac­ti­cally forced to book a guided tour for no less than DKK 500 (!) per person. Only the place itself is free. This means that the fee has more than doubled in the last two years. Anyone who thinks they are getting more for their money is mistaken. The hiking route to the light­house is now closed and will probably no longer be open to tourists. In other words, for just under €70, you get a short tour of the village, a few scanty details about puffins and a guide to accom­pany you on the walk up the slope. Once you reach the puffins at the top, you’re lucky if you see any puffins at all due to the size of the group and the guide only serves as a watchdog to make sure you don’t leave the path.

I under­stand the locals. They want to make sure that no nests (burrows) of the puffins are trampled on. You can believe that or not. But nevert­heless, at first glance it seems as if the locals have simply agreed to fleece the tourists and intro­duced the obli­ga­tion to “guide” them. In any case, a bitter after­taste remains.

At least we were able to achieve our daily goal of obser­ving, filming and photo­gra­phing puffins. If we hadn’t seen any for the money, it would have been even more annoying. We spent the after­noon on site. When the guide realised that we were really inte­rested in the photos, that we were very fami­liar with the puffins and that we would abide by all the rules, she even left us alone. So we had plenty of time to film and take photos. Later, I also photo­gra­phed some nice details in the harbour while waiting for the ferry. There was a real spec­tacle of seagulls between large rocks.

Puffins | Sony a7 IV + Sony FE 100–400 mm GM

Gasa­dalur the second and even more puffins

Once we were back and could look past the annoyance, I checked the weather again for the evening. Lo and behold, some­thing had changed. The View­findr app now even showed a 50:50 chance of a sunset at Gása­dalur. So we shouldn’t miss the chance. So we drove to Gása­dalur, but this time directly without a stopover.

We met our fellow photo­graphers from Italy again on site. We told them about Mykines and our annoyance at the further increase in the fee to DKK 500. He unders­tood our anger, but empha­sised that we didn’t have to go to Mykines because of the puffins, as he had seen some at the water­fall earlier. So we stopped by the water­fall again and found a whole family of perhaps 12 puffins. That evening I took lots more pictures of these cute feathered friends.

I also made what felt like hundreds of attempts to capture details of Múla­fo­ssur in calm condi­tions. I managed to get some great shots. Once with a puffin that flew very close to the water­fall and some shots with seagulls that look really spec­ta­cular. The sky over Gása­dalur remained lifeless for quite a long time, which is why I had plenty of time for such shots. But then suddenly some colour came through on the horizon. We hoped it would grow a little more, but this small local sunset only lasted a few minutes and then the colour and light were comple­tely gone. So we said goodbye and drove back to our accommodation.

Colours of Gása­dalur | Sony a7 IV + Sony FE 2.8/16–35 mm GM

Fjord Views & Snake Road

As always, the morning routine included checking the weather fore­cast. On the programme for the Faroe Islands today: low cloud, but at a reasonable height, rain possible in places. There was a good chance of seeing a few fjord view­points that we had already visited on our way past during the day, but visi­bi­lity was around zero. The under­side of the clouds should also be suitable for the famous Snake Road and a few nice shots of it.

And so it was. The weather was fine, the clouds were nice and low, some­times it drizzled a little, but we could see ever­y­thing we wanted. We slowly got to grips with the weather on the Faroe Islands and were able to better assess what it would look like at the indi­vi­dual locations.

Walking down the Snake Road | Sony a7 IV + Sony FE 2.8/16–35 mm GM

Vágar Gap

The plan for the afternoon/evening had already been made. The Faroe Islands should be covered with clouds in the centre, but the sky should be clear to the north-west, which should make for a beau­tiful sunset at Kallur light­house. It was to be a high­light of our trip.

We set off in the after­noon and drove towards Klaksvik. On the way, we stopped again briefly at a spot we had already disco­vered the day before. A “small” crevice in the middle of a hill on Vágar. I laun­ched the drone and mano­eu­vred it into the crevice. One shot in and one shot out should be enough. Then carefully fly out of the narrow crevice again and continue on our journey to Klaksvik, from where our ferry was due to leave in the early evening.

Vágar Spalte | DJI Mini 3 Pro

Klattur & Klaksvik

But first we wanted to enjoy the view from Klakkur. A short hike of about 45 minutes leads up to Klakkur. The climb is easy to master if you are in average physical condi­tion. From there you have a wonderful view of Kalsoy (left), Kunoy (centre) and Bordoy (right). We strug­gled a little with the time and the weather. We knew that the clouds in the centre of the islands could throw a spanner in the works. As our ferry was due to leave soon, we couldn’t wait too long.

The summit was in the clouds at times when we were there. Some­times we had a good view of the fjords for a short time, but before we could look for ideal compo­si­tions, we were usually shrouded in fog again. However, it is defi­ni­tely a great, rewar­ding view­point when the clouds aren’t too low.

Kallur Bend | Sony a7 IV + Sony FE 2.8/16–35 mm GM

Kalsoy — Ferry

So we set off again in the direc­tion of Klaksvik and the ferry. It’s important to mention that you should book the ferry online in advance. Car parking spaces are very limited. Some jour­neys can only be booked by tele­phone. The number can be found on the website of the online booking system. An uncom­pli­cated phone call and a few minutes later the acti­va­tion, so that we could book.

We bought some refresh­ments and as we still had a few minutes, we watched a foot­ball match in Klaksvik in front of an impres­sive fjord back­drop. We passed the waiting time quite nicely and then boarded the ferry. The ferry takes you past the island of Kunoy into the other arm of the fjord and heads straight for Syðra­dalur on the island of Kalsoy. You can’t really get lost on Kalsoy itself. There is only one road from Syðra­dalur to Trøl­lanes. On the way up north, you drive through a total of four dark, spar­sely lit tunnels. The journey is already beau­tiful, because you can see the remo­teness of this island.

Kallur | Sony a7 IV + Sony FE 4/24–105 mm G

Seal woman in Mikladalur

We drove past Husar to Mikl­a­dalur. Once there, we got to know two nice local café owners. Their café is right next to the mermaid, which is actually a seal woman (kopa­konan). We had a nice chat. It was about sheep farming, agri­cul­ture and how life on the Faroe Islands is chan­ging because of tourists. More guided walks, events, tourist bars and cafés, etc. and that tourists are both a curse and a bles­sing. Nature conser­va­tion, envi­ron­mental protec­tion, erosion, but also GDP, source of income, etc.

The story of the seal woman, by the way, goes back to an old legend. It said that the seals were actually people who sought their death in the sea and went back ashore on certain nights of the year to take off their fur and dance. A farmer stole a pretty woman’s fur to take her as his wife. Long-story-short, it was a pretty unsuc­cessful love story, she escaped, he went seal hunting and killed her family, and the rather one-sided romance ended with the seal woman retur­ning as a troll and cursing him and all the men of Kalsoy. They were to fall off the cliffs or die at sea until their bones lined the whole of Kalsoy. As men are still dying at sea, the locals believe that the debt has not yet been paid.

Kopá­konan | Sony a7 IV + Sony FE 4/24–105 mm G

Kallur Light­house

We continued on to Trøl­lanes, just a few minutes further north. We had got used to the fees by now and paid our DKK 200 per person as a matter of course before setting off towards the light­house. The path was actually safe and not too diffi­cult, but the condi­tions made it a slip­pery party, slip­pery wet grass, muddy, trodden path — it could quickly pull your feet away. This made it more stre­nuous than it should have been. But at least the weather co-operated as planned. The sun came out at just the right time.

We first went to the view­point on the eastern ridge. From there you have a fanta­stic view along the nort­hern­most points of the neigh­bou­ring islands. Photo­gra­phi­cally, wide-angle, stan­dard and tele­photo are possible from here. A great scene with an insane, almost crazy scale is created when someone hikes over the edge to the second view­point and you take a picture of them with a focal length of approx. 100 mm. As there were no hikers on the way, I sent my father to walk over the edge several times.

Once the pictures were in the can, I went to the second vantage point myself to enjoy the world’s most beau­tiful view. Photo­gra­phi­cally, 16mm wide-angle full-frame doesn’t feel wide enough here. If you want to capture ever­y­thing, you have to take a vertical or hori­zontal panorama. The drone also has to fly far, far away or use a panorama to capture this massive back­drop in its enti­rety. You don’t realise the dimen­sions, even when you see the little tiny white seagulls flying along the cliffs. We were there for a good 2 hours, enjoying the view, taking photos, filming and marvel­ling. A moment that you wish you could capture forever. A photo­graph can do that, at least in part, it’s simply amazing.

The last ferry took us back to Klaksvik, just 1 hour and 10 minutes later we were back at our flat. Grateful for what we had seen, a special moment for the soul. This world is big, unique and wonderful. What a bles­sing that we were able and allowed to expe­ri­ence it for ourselves.

Kallur Light­house | Sony a7 IV + Sony FE 2.8/16–35 mm GM

Hike to Drangarnir

For the next day — the last day on the Faroe Islands — we had decided on a hike to Dran­garnir. It is also an impres­sive natural monu­ment that can only be reached on a guided tour. The cost is not cheap. About 80€ converted. For this you get a little infor­ma­tion about the place itself, a hike lasting 5–6 hours and a distance of around 12 kilo­me­tres. An alter­na­tive is a boat tour to the end of the head­land. This is only slightly more expen­sive and is a good option for those who are not free from vertigo or are not good at walking.

The path is a little more chal­len­ging at the start, very narrow and slip­pery in places. On the right, it goes straight down into the water, on the left it climbs steeply up the slope. Once you have completed the first 20 minutes, however, the most chal­len­ging part is already over. You pass old houses or their ruins, a pebble beach, a water­fall and fenced-in meadows. The ascent to the upper vantage point is sweat-indu­cing. The guide took a break with us there so that we had time to take photos. The motif was Dran­garnir from a distance. Photo tip: look for a fore­ground here too and go for a slightly wider angle. I had the feeling that tele­photo shots are not parti­cu­larly inte­res­ting here. Unless you can find suitable “distrac­tors”.

The last few metres, the descent to Dran­garnir, is then less deman­ding, although you should still take care. You also have plenty of time to take photos directly at Dran­garnir. Due to the many people on the hike, this time was also neces­sary. There was always someone stan­ding or walking in front of the lens. This could be reme­died by compo­sing several shots in Photo­shop or using a long expo­sure to “elimi­nate” people. When most people were already heading back, I had another perfect oppor­tu­nity. Photo tip: A person in the fore­ground is certainly inte­res­ting, take the cliff ridge as the fore­ground, or posi­tion a person at the end of the cliff to visua­lise the size of the rock.

Further down, if the swell allows it, photo­graphy at water level is possible. Flying drones is only permitted here with the owner’s permis­sion, espe­ci­ally during the bree­ding season. The way back is a little less stre­nuous as you walk further down along the fjord and not via the upper view­point. However, the last half is the same.

Dran­garnir | Sony a7 IV + Sony FE 2.8/16–35 mm GM

Closing words/conclusion

The trip to the Faroe Islands was a sensa­tional expe­ri­ence. A great trip, a beau­tiful, impres­sive country with magni­fi­cent land­scapes. The Faroe Islands are certainly not everyone’s cup of tea. The weather is a bit of a lottery. But there is hardly any other country that looks so bril­liant in pictures in “lousy” weather. Mykines is well worth a visit, but you can also find puffins else­where if you are obser­vant and don’t mind paying for a guided tour.

Faroe Islands — a country where tourism is still in its infancy. You can see that in many places. Nature conser­va­tion is very important to the Faroese in large parts, but I don’t think they really know how to go about protec­ting nature while still allo­wing tourism. Simply char­ging more and more fees in the hope that fewer people will visit is not enough to protect the envi­ron­ment. Perhaps the state needs to become more active here and not rely on the landow­ners alone. The protec­tion of their land is also important to them, but so is a full wallet.

The Faroe Islands are defi­ni­tely worth a trip for photo­graphers and hiking enthu­si­asts. But don’t unde­re­sti­mate the dimen­sions and the weather. Also note that there isn’t always a refuge like in the Alps, so you’ll be safe on the road!

I hope I was able to give you some inspi­ra­tion, infor­ma­tion and enthu­siasm in the 3 parts about the Faroe Islands. Thank you for reading/watching! Take care. Ciao!

Walking on the Ridge | Sony a7 IV + Sony FE 100–400 mm GM

This and all other shots of this post you can request under “Prints” as an art print for your wall at home directly from me. 

Pictures from the VLOG

During the last three days on the Faroe Islands I took some impres­sive and beau­tiful pictures. In this gallery I show you my favou­rite and most inte­res­ting shots of these days. 

VLOG to the BLOG

Today is the third and final part of my trip to the Faroe Islands. In today’s video, we visit the cutest inha­bi­tants of the Faroe Islands, take a look at some more unknown spots that are super easy to reach, I show you a modera­tely diffi­cult hike with great views, we drive through Klaksvík and hike to two of the abso­lute high­lights of the Faroe Islands. Plus, here are a few things you should know before you go hiking on the Faroe Islands! And at the end, a short summary of the Faroe Islands. Have fun watching!

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