6 methods to create the Orton effect

In today’s VLOG/BLOG, I will give you a total of 6 methods on how you can quickly and easily apply the so-called Orton effect to your images using Ligh­t­room or Photo­shop. The Orton effect is a fairy­tale, pain­terly look that gives your pictures a little glow and soft­ness. Mystical moods are enhanced, fog or haze appear a little stronger and more myste­rious, struc­tures in the water a little softer. The effect itself comes from the analog photo­graphy of Michael Orton. He needed two pictures for this. One sharp and slightly over­ex­posed and another over­ex­posed, blurred photo. He then super­im­posed these in the dark­room to create the look that is known today as the Orton effect. Thanks to digital photo­graphy, we no longer have to take these two shots, but can recreate the effect very easily and, above all, more precisely and finely in Ligh­t­room and Photoshop. 

You can see the VLOG to the BLOG at the bottom of the page or you can reach it via this button:

Gear:

Sony a7IV
Sony FE 2.8/16–35 mm GM
Sony FE 4/24–105 mm G
Sony FE 100–400 mm GM
DJI Mini 3 Pro

When can you use the Orton effect?

It works parti­cu­larly well with strong contrasts and intense light, espe­ci­ally in forest and water­fall photo­graphy. In my opinion, it is also very effec­tive there and usually suits the mood in the picture. But it can also be used in large land­scapes to create a more dreamy mood in the picture. It also enhances mystical moods, which is why it is parti­cu­larly suitable for fog images.

However, you should be careful, as the effect can quickly become too strong in the image. For me, if you can already see that the Orton effect is super­im­posed on the image, then it is already too much. Ever­yone has to decide for them­selves and for each image where the limits lie. So feel free to leave the image “lying around” over­night and look at it again the next day. If it looks too arti­fi­cial, then it may be too much of a good thing.

Of course, Michael Orton was less able to influence the strength of the effect in analog photo­graphy than we can today. As a result, his photo­graphs are usually much more strongly executed with the Orton effect than we would perhaps consider aesthe­ti­cally plea­sing today. In the follo­wing, I will explain 6 methods of recrea­ting the Orton effect. In the end, I always turn the effect down quite a bit, so that it still has a slight effect at best, but is not obtru­sive. Of course, you have to decide for yourself how much the effect should influence your recording.

Myste­rious cloud forest | Sony a7 IV + Sony FE 4/24–105 mm G

The methods

In the follo­wing, I will give you 6 methods on how you can quickly and easily apply the Orton effect to your pictures. The list is intended more as an aid to thought — a short summary. So be sure to watch the video below if the indi­vi­dual steps are not quite clear to you. 

Method 1: In Ligh­t­room: Create an area mask for the bright image areas (approx. 50–100) Set the filter with the follo­wing parameters

  • Expo­sure +2 Contrast +70 Struc­ture ‑50 Clarity ‑60 Sharp­ness ‑100 Noise +100
  • At the end, reduce the amount slightly to 8–20%, depen­ding on personal preference
  • → Save settings as a preset so that you can use them again and again

Method 2: In Photo­shop with blur filter

  • Dupli­cate back­ground with Ctrl+J or select top layer and Ctrl+Shift+Alt+E to merge current edit into a new top layer
  • Apply filter/blur filter/Gaussian blur /33px (at 33 MP, more if required) to newly created layer
  • Set the layer trans­pa­rency of the effect layer to approx. 8–12%, if neces­sary with a lumi­nance mask on bright image areas (up to perhaps 15%-20%)

Method 3: In Photo­shop + Camera Raw filter:

  • Dupli­cate back­ground with Ctrl+J or select top layer and Ctrl+Shift+Alt+E to merge current edit into a new top layer
  • Apply filter/blur filter/Gaussian blur/33px (at 33 MP, more if required) to newly created layer
  • Apply camera raw filter to layer
  • Settings in Camera-Raw, approx. Bright­ness + 0.9 Contrast + 100 Temp + 17 Tint + 17
  • Create lumi­nance mask for bright areas and apply to layer

Method 4: In Photo­shop + “Nega­tive Multiply”/“Multiply” blen­ding methods:

  • Open image in Photo­shop and copy three times (Ctrl. + J)
  • Top layer → Set blend mode to “Multiply” and opacity to approx. 60%
  • Second layer → Apply blend mode “Nega­tive multiply” and filter/blur filter/Gaussian blur with radius 33px (at 33 MP, or more if required)
  • Select the three copied layers and right-click “Reduce to one layer”, alter­na­tively group with Ctrl+G
  • Reduce the opacity of the merged layer between 20 and 35% so that the effect does not look artificial.
  • Apply lumi­nance mask if required

Method 5: With Photo­shop + Brightness/Contrast adjus­t­ment layer:

  • Dupli­cate back­ground (Ctrl+J)
  • Apply filter/blur filter/Gaussian blur with radius approx. 33% (at 33 MP, or more if required) to dupli­cated layer
  • Add new brightness/contrast adjus­t­ment layer → bright­ness +50, contrast +40 (expe­ri­ment as required)
  • Right-click on the adjus­t­ment layer and select “Create clip­ping mask”.
  • Layer with filter effect → Set opacity between 15 and 25%
  • Apply lumi­nance mask if required

Method 6: With Photo­shop + Soft Light blen­ding method:

  • Dupli­cate back­ground twice with Ctrl+J
  • Apply bright­ness +30 to a layer (a little more if necessary)
  • Apply bright­ness +30 (a little more if neces­sary) to the second layer and use the “Gaus­sian blur” blur filter
  • Mixing methods Soft light, set for both levels
  • Group both layers (Ctrl+G) and, if neces­sary, apply a lumi­nance mask or layer mask to the group, other­wise the dark tones will be too dark.

The Land of Souls | Sony a7 IV + Sony FE 4/24–105 mm G

This and all other shots of this post you can request under “Prints” as an art print for your wall at home directly from me. 

Conclu­sion

In my eyes, all 6 methods do what they are supposed to do. If I don’t see the need to edit an image in Photo­shop any further, I use method 1 and the complete appli­ca­tion in Ligh­t­room. Method 2 is my quick’n’dirty go-to method, which can be adjusted quickly without much effort. It differs from Method 5 only in the Brightness/Contrast adjus­t­ment layer, which of course adds a little more “light glow”. If the fog is dense, method 2 is usually enough for me; if the sun shines through a little, I think method 5 is slightly better.

Method 3 is simi­larly effec­tive and does what it should. However, the detour via Camera Raw is usually too cumber­some for me, which is why I rarely use it. Method 4 is probably the most “profes­sional”. In my opinion, the effect is also one of the best achieved here. It is slightly more compli­cated than the other methods, but the effect is good. Method 6 is actually the “correct” method with regard to editing in the analog age, but you really have to be careful with the dark areas of the image, which become a little darker and, if neces­sary, adjust the bright­ness a little after­wards so that the end result fits.

I hope you were able to learn some­thing and find one or more Orton effect methods for your­selves. Thanks for reading/watching and see you next time. Ciao.

VLOG to the BLOG

In today’s video, I’ll give you a total of 6 methods on how you can quickly and easily apply the so-called Orton effect to your images using Ligh­t­room or Photo­shop. The Orton effect is a fairy­tale, pain­terly look that gives your images a little glow and soft­ness. Mystical moods are enhanced, fog or haze appear a little stronger and more myste­rious, struc­tures in the water a little softer. Have fun watching!

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